As we drove through the Remutaka Range, South of Wellington Airport in New Zealand, we suddenly burst into pine trees with a welcoming rainbow across the sky, sheltering the first little town of Featherston in the Wairarapa.
The town itself does not impress you at first glance. It would not be most people’s choice of vacation stays. But in a few hours, it steals your heart.
My son and his family have bought a house that is more like a large country cottage with a picket fence and a long veranda. I stayed with them for five months, slowly discovering why it is called a Book Town. We are all avid readers. It is no wonder then that they decided to live in this town. My grandson is hyperlexic (advanced ability to read words) and learned to read everything and anything by the age of four.
My favourite place is the little Featherston Library. It is an old Enid Blyton-style Cottage with flower beds outside and in the garden. There’s a table and chairs outside too. A very well laid out and planned library run by a most un-librarian like lady, Penny Griffin, who has been there for 38 years I say un-librarian like as a compliment. I have known all kinds of them all over the world,
In very large libraries like the University Library with the Clock Tower in Central Mumbai or small dusty ones in the attics of people’s houses. All of them were the same. The finger on the lip to all readers and children were hushed and told to respect the pages. But Penny at Featherston has brought light to all readers. Her motto is to ‘put the right book in the hands of the right person’. She knows what everyone likes to read from their selections and just walks up to them and asks: “Would you like to try this book?”
So, if you get the drift, she likes to talk to people. She lets children sprawl on the carpet or arm chairs and read. She was a dancer and was taught Elocution by her mother. “When they have read-aloud sessions in the library I tell children to open their lips and read clearly.” She prides herself on the 40 million books she handles and can easily pick up a book that you need.
The library has an interconnection with the libraries from the surrounding towns. Her recommendations and help are truly professional. There is a whole section of Māori books and books by the Indigenous Peoples in every category She was given a well-deserved special Award for her work by the Council of the Wairarapa.
There are several bookstores and coffee shops- cum bookstores but my second favourite is The Dickensian Bookshop and Tearooms. It’s like walking into an old period Tea Room. On Fitzherbert Street, if you look in, you will see a smiling Patsy and Dave surrounded by collector- tea cups, checked table cloths and lots of well-planned bookshelves. Dave said , “I was an IT man in the UK, but always had a passion for history and good English Literature.” He collected books all his life and when he came back to the Wairarapa where he had spent his childhood, he went to book sales and collected more books.
Patsy’s dream was to open a Tea Room. Patsy is a charming European immigrant who loves to bake. She serves Devonshire Cream Teas. Her speciality is the lightness of the cream, her scones and her cakes. They just melt in your mouth. I went there with friends and sat for hours. The portions are large, the teas of great quality, the ambience right for the mind and the spirit.
In 2019, Dave and Patsy finally found a large shop in Featherston, the Book Town. He has some exciting old classics and First Editions. I was delighted to find rare copies of books by the likes of A.A. Milne, Jerome K. Jerome, and Lewis Carroll. His love for Dickens is obvious. His rosy cheeks and round face are that of a perfect Dickensian character. When he wears his Top Hat to show off, he really looks like he walked out of the Old Curiosity Shop!
Although the British Colony has left its mark, it is the Indigenous people who bring colour and life to Featherston.Ki ora meaning hello, bye or be well, is heard everywhere and read in all places.
For The Love of Books, like the name tells you, is created by people who love books for people who love books. The owner is Jennifer Grey whom I didn’t meet but you can see her love of books all around. Comfortable seating and a children’s play area help you to browse. When I walked in, it took my breath away. It is so large, you look around wondering where to start. Every shelf is labelled, From First Editions of great classics to new-age Children’s books like The Adventures of a Wimpy Kid.
Since there are so many books, most on sale, they have a very impressive system of pasting different coloured dots on the spine of each book with corresponding large dots on the wall with the price marked. There is an extensive collection of Vinyl records and CDs too
Loco Coffee and Books is a large house. It has tables, chairs, sofas, rooms, people and counters everywhere. Yet you can find a quiet corner to read or meet someone. A little old lady pops up over a counter to offer coffee and cake.
These were my favourite places to spend time. But if you go to New Zealand, visit the Book Town of Featherston in the North Island. Download the Booklover’s Trail- Te Ara Kai Pukapuka.
For its size and population, Featherston has more bookstores than people in Aotearoa New Zealand. In the last five years, since it was declared New Zealand's first Book Town, Featherston has grown to include eight bookstores that are open for business throughout the year. A book festival is held there every summer, bringing new book releases, famous authors and Book Readings to the pages of Featherston. These are the most popular at present:
The Dickensian Bookshop and Tea Rooms
Messines Bookshop: Military History
Loco Coffee and Books
Mr Feather's Den
For the Love of Books
The Featherston Ferret
Chicken and Frog Bookstore
Featherston Crystals & Curiosities.
If you are touring Down Under in Summer, book a few days stay at Featherston for the Book Town Festival,Featherston is New Zealand's only official Book Town and holds a respected position within this global community, having even hosted the IOB(International Organisation of Booktowns) General Assembly in 2024.
On a dark night, drive just a little away from the town. The cows will low, the sheep will bleat for a few seconds. Then, look up and see the Milky Way – Truly, God’s own painting in the sky.
Featherston Librarian .Penny Griffith Dickensian Tea Shop , Dave