How I Learned To Love Moscow

I arrived in Moscow on a cold grey morning, and the city’s first impression was of a similar hue. As I made my way through immigration, a quiet and intimidating officer scanned through my passport, indicating -- without words or actions -- that all was not well with my documentation. After about five minutes, he got up and left, leaving me entirely bewildered. Attempts to ask others what might be wrong were not successful, and as time passed, my apprehensions grew. Just as I was reconciling myself to the possibility of having to take the next flight back home, the officer reappeared, and without saying a word, stamped my passport and let me through.

Welcome to Moscow… a city that is confusing in every which way. The people aren’t exactly friendly, and this trait -- combined with their model good looks and statuesque build and height -- makes for a very intimidating interaction. English isn’t widely spoken, adding to the sense of uncertainty that follows you as you walk through the large and sparse city. The country’s communist history stares you in the face wherever you go, with monuments remembering fallen heroes and victorious battles, but you can’t really tell what the Muscovites are trying to tell you through this homage to their past. At times, it seems like the aim is to tell you that communism was a mistake, that the leaders were ‘terrorists’ and that Russia has moved to free-er and liberated times. At other instances it feels like the homage to a communist past is in line with the proud Russian’s ability to do things differently, to not toe the line, to fight for equality, and to stand up to the powers that be.

There’s of course the Kremlin and the Red Square -- the heart of political life in Moscow. As you walk through the ancient fortresses, you’ll feel a sense of history, appreciation, shock and disgust all at once. You’ll see empathy mixed with ruthlessness, and begin to get a sense of the contradictory aspects that go into making Russia’s past, but also its present. When inside the complex, you can explore the golden onion topped domes of the churches where many deceased Heads of the Russian Orthodox Church and Royal Family are laid to rest. On the eastern side of the Kremlin, is the Red Square, home to the remodelled and modernised Lenin’s Tomb. If you so fancy, you can take a peek at the Russian revolutionary leader’s embalmed body.

As you marvel at the magnificence of St Basil's Cathedral, you’ll be moved in every which way. Moscow will tantalize you, and it won’t do so politely. Eventually, you’ll be let in, but just as the immigration officer at the airport, it won’t happen pleasantly, and when it does happen, it’ll be without explanation.

While the inability to communicate in English combined with the unfamiliarity may urge you to take taxis everywhere, don’t make the mistake of not checking out the metro is Moscow. With huge stations adorned with imposing decorations, glittering chandeliers, white polished marble, impressive statues and the longest escalators you may ever see, the Moscow metro is unlike any other.

Another must do is Russian ballet -- world renowned and famous. The Bolshoi is arguably the most famous ballet company in the world and you can get tickets to performances at the Bolshoi Theatre -- a historic building designed by architect Joseph Bové.

Definitely check out some galleries, most notable being the Tretyakov Gallery, packed with Russian art and icons. There’s also the Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts with an impressive collection of impressionist and post-impressionist.

And if you’re into steamed baths -- the Turkish kind -- Russia has it’s own variant. Head for a banya at Sanduny Baths -- the city’s oldest bathhouse. Relax in the steamed bath, go for a swim in the stunning indoor pool, and enjoy some tea and snack at the luxurious saloon.

There’s also an exciting nightlife, and while people may call New York the ‘city that never sleeps’, they’ve seen nothing yet if they haven’t seen Moscow. Unlike other big cities, you don’t need a huge bank balance to make the most of a night out in Moscow -- the city has something for everyone. And no matter where you choose to party the night away, class and other barriers dissolve as people gather in the wee hours to watch the sunrise over Moscow’s golden domes and silver skyscrapers.

So Moscow may time some time to show you it’s true side, but once it does, you’ll fall utterly in love.