Kolhapuri on the Ramp

A big brouhaha has been brewing online after the Italian luxury fashion brand Prada's models recently sashayed on the ramp in our Indian Kolhapuri chappals, the iconic leather flip-flops. All this razz-matazz at the Prada collection show at Milan's Fashion Week Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 has unleashed a backlash from Maharashtra authorities and artisanal groups against Prada for not even tipping the hat to the Indian design and the provenance of this footwear

Our humble Kolhapuri chappal, with its immense street cred , has always been a popular choice for folks without deep pockets. Its affordability, durability plus its hand made artistry in leather made it a preferred choice for many. No fuss, no frills and unisex.

It never needed any product promotion and never had a hang up about its flat -sole as against its uppity high-heeled stiletto sandals worn by fashionistas. It knew in its leather guts that elevation of soul is more precious than the elevation of the sole. And over the years its comfort and good looks made it the choice of social influencers and ciné stars all over India.

Stiletto named after the Italian stiletto, a sharp pointed dagger, could certainly help those longitudinally challenged but It couldn't have been an easy walk for models and fashion victims to walk in these stilt -like stilettos . But then as the quote by fashion photographer Bill Cunningham states, "Fashion is the armour to survive the reality of everyday life". Haute couture creates its Cinderella moment: the wearer sheds the humdrum reality and wears the golden slippers.

So now Kolhapuri has been catapulted on the catwalk by Prada to share that euphoric moment. Hence the seduction to lure the fashion hungry with off-beat deconstructed ensembles of suits or tunics with chappals , with socks or without. Remember even the Devil wears Prada!

Prada models walked on the ramp with insouciance in our Kolhapuri, of course , masquerading as designer 'toe ring sandals'! The price tag of Rs. 1.2 lakhs for these clones is enough to send folks into a fainting spell on the streets of Kolhapur where this current favourite was born and sold for a few hundred rupees . The skilful artisans would need several lifetimes to amass that astronomical amount.

The trend spotters at Prada must've sniffed the global artisanal surge from India. Not just footwear, India remains a hotspot for using its apparel diversity and artisanal skills in many areas exploited over the years by international fashion houses. Gautier had Sari like outfits in 2017 and the models wore the exotic nose ring. The marketing and the narrative created by luxe fashion houses like Zara, Louis Vuitton , Gucci et al gets them the profits while the poor artisans struggle in a hard scrabble existence.

Imagine the furore if we told the French that Champagne had nothing to do with its GI tag or we scotch the idea of Scotch whiskey being exclusively from Scotland. So Maratha ashmita or pride is being trodden under foot by not acknowledging the original creators of this footwear.

To seal its provenance the Kolhapuri chappals have had a geographical indication ( G.I) tag since 2019. The Kolhapuri leather craft has been practiced for generations in Maharashtra and Karnataka dating back to 12th century . Later royal patronage helped in making the Kolhapuris a popular design.

After official notice from Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce at this brazen robbery along with cultural appropriation and the online backlash , Prada has conceded that the footwear was inspired by Kolhapuri design. And admitted that ethical corporate responsibility demands acknowledgement of the debt to an iconic legacy and dealing with Kolhapur artisans to uplift their livelihoods in future. A good off-ramp solution to the on ramp controversy.

We know of a few 'shoegates' where footwear has been used as a tool of protest. But after the recent drone warfare in the India-Pak and the Iran-Israel conflict , memes show Chappals as the the precursors of drones. Chappals have been used by women against their stalkers as readily available weapons. No need to look for advanced loitering munitions but aim these directly at loitering eve teasers . It makes them truly 'Hawaii chappals' --- not in the sense of beach sandals but as aerial missiles. Kolhapuri chappals could add this feature in their C.V( curriculum vitae) or perhaps chappal vitae would be more apt!